The fabric of the season
Toile de Jouy has a long story behind it. During the great colonial period, this material was imported from trading posts in the Indies. Commercialized in Europe under the name ‘indienne’, this patterned, colored, cotton fabric was banned by the King of France, on the grounds that indiennes were in competition with silks. It made a comeback though, thanks to entrepreneur Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf, who set up his factory in Jouy-en-Josas. In 1783, Louis XVI endowed the business with the title of ‘Royal Manufacturer of Painted Fabric’ and the fabric took its French name from the place where it was made. Toile de Jouy was born.
Favored by the bourgeois and aristocrats to furnish their homes in complete Versailles style, this must-have material in the world of French textiles also seduced the designer Christian Dior, who made it a distinguishing feature of his boutiques’ decor. His successor Maria Grazia Chiuri has updated this great 18th century classic, by reinterpreting it in her designs for the 2019 Cruise collection. Scenes depicting pastoral life have given way to wild animals on the savannah. Camel and black combine majestically on toile de Jouy, adorning dresses, trench coats, jeans and shorts.
Chloé’s collection also reflects the toile de Jouy trend. Natacha Ramsay-Levi, Chloé’s creative director, has taken the original designs of blue and red on a white background, and worked them with simple fabrics like tartan and jacquard.
Get the toile de Jouy look this summer! Style bleached jeans printed in pastoral blues and whites, with a pair of chunky white Vanessa Wu sneakers, a tucked-in T-shirt and a white blazer. Wear a light summer dress, all in toile de Jouy, and bring out your rock side with a leather biker jacket. And for fall, our pick is a blouse in printed black and blue toile de Jouy, teamed with black carrot pants and a pair of black Vanessa Wu ankle boots.
« Toile de Jouy has made its way over to menswear too - featuring in Dior Homme and in the NikeCourt Roland Garros Collection. Honey, are you game (for toile de Jouy)? »
(c) Photos credits:
Photo 1: La chemise toile de Jouy - Deedee - les expatriés
Photo 2: Dior, une tenue pour jouy sans entrave - O - L'Obs
Photo 3: Maje collection printemps - Vogue
Photo 4: Nikecourt Tennis Paris collection - Le site de la Sneaker